IS4046(Part2):1996 (Reaffirmed 2002) Indian Standard TEXTILES - GENTS' COTTON BRIEFS SPECIFICATION PART 2 PLAIN KNITTED ICS 61.020 0 BIS 1996 BUREAU MANAK OF INDIAN STANDARDS BHAVAN, 9 BAHADUR SHAH ZAFAR h4ARG NEW DELHI 110002 Price Group 3 April 1996 Hosiery Sectional Committee, TX 10 FOREWORD This Indian Standard was adopted by the Bureau of Indian Standards, after the draft finalized by the Hosiery Sectional Committee had been approved by the Textile Division Council. This standard covers briefs made from plain knitted fabric. Part 1 of the standard was published in 1981 and covers briefs made from 1 x 1, thin 2-ply rib-knitted fabric. Briefs are tight fitting underwear without leg portion, For the purpose of deciding whether a particular requirement of this standard is complied with, the final value, observed or calculated, expressing the result of a test or analysis, shall be rounded off in accordance with IS 2 : 1960 `Rules for rounding off numerical values (revised). The number of significant places retained in the rounded off value should be the same as that of the specified value in this standard. IS 4046 ( Part 2 ) : 1996 Indian Standard TEXTILES-GENTS'COTTONBRIEFSSPECIFICATION PART 2 PLAIN KNITTED 1 SCOPE 1.1 This standard (Part 2) prescribes the constructional details and other particulars of bleached or dyed plain knitted gent's cotton briefs. 1.2 This standard does not prescribe the general appearance, lustre, feel and shade of briefs (see also 5.3). 2 REFERENCES The Indian Standards listed in Annex A are necessary adjuncts to this standard. 3 TERMINOLOGY For the purpose of this standard the definition as given in IS 3596 : 1967 shall apply. 4 MANUFACTURE 4.1 General Design The design and shape of the briefs shall be as shown in Fig. 1 for Type I and Fig. 2 for Type II. The briefs shall be tailored out of well and evenly plain knitted fabric. The fabric shall be bleached or dyed and shall conform to construction particulars given in Table 1. 4.1.1 Wales and courses shall be determined by the method given in B-4. 4.2 Elastic Strap 4.2.1 The briefs shall have woven elastic strap conforming to IS 9686 : 1980 stitched at the waist band or the waist shall be formed by folding the edges of the fabric to a depth of minimum 25 mm and stitching it with flat stitches. In case of latter a cotton tape preferably conforming to IS 1895 : 1982 or a suitable tape made out of same fabric as that is used for fabricating the briefs shall be provided in waist fold used for tying purposes. It shall be at least 30 cm longer than the corresponding waist girth. Braided elastic strap at the thigh openings may also be provided, if required by the buyer. 4.3 Seams and Stitches The type of stitches and count of sewing thread used for stitching various portions of briefs shall be as given in Table 2. The sewing thread shall conform preferably to IS 1720 : 1978. 4.3.1 4.3.2 All cotton sewing threads used for stitching shall be bleached or dyed according to the shade of briefs. Sewing thread of cross shades may also be used if agreed to between the buyer and the seller. 4.4 Freedom from Defects The briefs shall be free from fabrication defects such as loose threads, missing stitches, oil stains, defective stitching, uneven dyeing, stains or any other defect which may significantly marr the appearance or serviceability. 4.4.1 5 REQUIREMENTS 5.1 Dimensions The dimensions of briefs of different sizes for Types I and II, when measured by method given in B-2 shall conform to requirements of Tables 3 and 4 respectively. NOTE - The size of the brief is designated by the hip measurement of the wearers, for example, 85 size'briefs are meant for wearers having hip girth of 85 cm. Table 1 Construction Particulars of Plain Knitted Fabric ( Clause 4.1 ) Gauge of Machine') Approximate Count of Yarn Cotton Count (tex) 38* (15.5), 40' (14.5) 40' (14.5), 44s (13.5), 5os (12.0) bv number of needles uer 2.5 cm. 39`(15.0), 42' (14.0), 45% (13.0), Wales per dm, Min 142 154 Courses per b, Mh 1% 212 24 26 `) As determined 1 IS 4046 ( Part 2 ) : 1996 Table 2 Seams and Stitches (ckzuse 4.3.1) Portton to be Stitched Tnn of Stitch No. of Slltches per cm, Min Count of Sewtng Thread F in Needle(s) (4) \ In Looper(s) (5) (1) Joining at the seat and side seams Hemming at the front opening Joining of ela+tic straps to waist ban (2) Flat Lack (3) 4 Three strands of 60% cotton count (100 dtex x 3) do One strand of 40% cotton count (145 dtex x 2) No strands of 40% cotton count (145 dta x 2) or 60% cotton count (100 dtex x 3) do One strand of 40% count 145 dtcx x 2) Flat Lock Flat Lock 4 4 i FIG. 1 TYPICAL SHAPE OF TYPE 1 BRIEFS 6 MARKING 5.2 Other requirements of briefs shall be asgiven in Table 5. 5.3 Sealed Sample In case a sample has been agreed upon and sealed to illustrate or specify the indeterminable characteristics, such as general appearance, lustre, shade and feel of briefs, the supply shall be in conformity with the sample in such respects. 5.3.`1 Custody of the sealed sample shall be a matter of prior agreement between the buyer and the seller. 6.1 A suitable cloth label shall be securely attached to each brief at the inside near the waist band on which following shall be indicated: a) Size of brief; b) Indication of source of manufacture; c) Washing instructions, if any; and d) Any other information as required by the buyer. 6.1.1 BIS Certijicrrtion Marking The briefs may also be marked with the Standard Mark. 2 IS 4046 ( Part 2 ) : 1996 Table 3 Dimensions of Type I Briefs (Clause 5.1 and Fig. 1) All dimensions in centimetres. size Width Across Waist (2) A 75 80 8.5 90 95 100 Tolerance 28.5 30.5 31.5 33.5 35.5 36.5 k2.0 Fmlll Length (3) B 26 28 30 31 33 34 kl.5 Width at Bottom (4) c 10.0 11.0 12.0 12.5 13.0 14.0 21.5 Side Length (5) D 13 14 15 16 17 18 k1.5 Thigh Opening (6) E 19.5 20.5 22.5 23.5 24.5 26.5 21.5 Width Across Seat (7) F 33 34 35 37 38 40 51.5 (1) FIG. 2 TYPICAL SHAPE OF TYPE II BRIEF Dimensions of Type II Briefs (Clause 5.1 and Fig. 2) All dimensions il; centimetres. Table 4 Size Width Across Waist (21 A Front Length Width at Boltom (4) C 8.5 9.0 9.5 10.0 10.5 11.5 k1.5 Side Length (5) D 9.0 10.0 11.0 11.0 12.0 12.5 f1.5 Thigh Opening (6) E 19.5 21.0 22.0 23.0 24.0 25.0 kl.5 Width Across Seal (7) F 32.0 34.0 36.0 39.0 41.0 43.0 k1.5 (1) (3) B 23.5 25.0 26.5 28.5 30.0 31.5 21.5 75 80 85 90 95 100 Tolerance 26.0 27.0 30.0 32.0 35.0 37.0 22.0 3 IS 4046 ( Part 2 ) : 1996 Table 5 Other Requirements of Briefs (Clause 5.2) SI No. (1) i) Characteristics (2) Dimensional change due to relaxation (both direction), percent, Mar Scouring loss percent, Mar pH value of aqueous extract 5 Requirement (3) Method of Test (4) B-3 ii) iii) 2 6108 IS 1383 : 1977. (Mild Method) : 1983 (Cold Method) IS 1390 iv) Colout fastness of dyed briefs to: a) Light (see Note) 4 or better IS 2454 : 1985 or IS 686 : 1985 IS 764 : 1979 b) Washing test: 3 1) Change in colout 2) Staining on adjacent fabric c) Perspiration 1) Change in colout 2) Staining on adjacent fabric d) Rubbing (wet and dry) NOTE - 3 or better 3 or better IS 971: 1983 4 or better 4 or better 4 or better IS 766 : 1988 In case of dispute colout fastness to light shall be detetmined by the method prescribed in IS 686 : 1985. 6.1.2 The use of the Standard Mark is governed by the provisions of the Bureau of Indian Standards&t, 1986 and the Rules and Regulations made thereunder. The details of conditions under which the licence for the use of Standard Mark may be granted to manufacturers or producers may be obtained from the Bureau of Indian Standards. 7 PACKING Briefs shall be packed preferably in bales or cases in accordance with IS 3325 : 1965 or IS 3086 : 1965 as the case may be. 8 SAMPLING AND CRITERIA FOR CONFORMITY 8.1 Lot In any consignment, all the briefs of same size and manufactured from plain knitted fabric of same count of yarn, knitted on machine of same gauge and delivered to a buyer against one despatch note shall constitute a lot. 8.1.1 The conformity of a lot to the requirements of this specification shall be determined on the basis of the tests carried out on the samples selected from the lot. 8.2 Unless otherwise agreed to between the buyer and the seller, a number of briefs depending upon the site of the lot shall be selected at random from the lot to constitute the gross sample. The number of briefs so selected shall be in accordance with co1 2 of Table 6. Table 6 Sample Size and Permissible Number of Non-Conforming (Clauses 8.2 and 8.3) Number of Briefs in the Lot Phmical Characteristics f Number of Briefs Permissible Number ' Briefs to be Inspected of Non-Conforming Briefs Number of Briefs lo be Inspected (1) Upto 301 to 500 501 to 1 ooo 1001 and above (2) 10 20 32 50 (3) 0 1 3 5 (4) 3 5 5 8 4 IS 4046 ( Part 2 ) : 1996 8.3 The number of briefs to be tested and criterion for conformity for each of the characteristics shall be as follows: Characteristic Number of Drawers to be Tested Criterion for Conformity Freedom from defects, wales and courses and dimensions Dimensional change, scouring Ioss,pH value of aqueous extract Colours fastness See co1 2 of Table 6 Non-conforming briefs not to exceed the corresponding number given in co1 3 of Table 6. All the briefs to satisfy the relevant requirements All the test specimens to satisfy the relevant requirements See co1 4 of Table 6 1 each of the same colour shade and for lot size up to 500 and 2 above 500. ANNEX A (Czul&se 2) LIST OF REFERRED INDIAN STANDARDS IS No. 686 : 1985 Title IS No. Title Method for determination of colour fastness of textile materials to day light (first revision) Methods for determination of colour fastness of textile materials to washing Test 3 (second revision) Methods for determination of colour fastness of textile materials to rubbing (@st revision) Methods for determination of colour fastness of textile materials to perspiration (first revision) Methods for determination of scouring loss in gery and finished cotton textile materials (first revision) 1390 : 1983 Methods for determination of pH value of aqueous extracts of textile materials (first revision) Cotton revision) 764 : 1979 1720 : 1978 1895 : 1982 2454 : 1985 sewing threads (second Cotton NEWER (second revision) Methods for determination of colour fastness of textile materials to artificial daylight (Xenon lamp) (first revision) 766 : 1988 971 : 1983 3086 : 1965 3325 : 1965 6359 : 1971 9686 : 1980 Code for seaworthy packaging of cotton hosiery yarn and goods Code for inland packaging of cotton hosiery yarn and goods Method for conditioning of textiles Elastic tape 1383 : 1977 ANNEX B (Clauses 4.1.1,5.1 and Table 5) METHODS OF TEST B-l CONDITIONING AND ATMOSPHERIC TESTING OF TEST .SPECIMENS CONDITIONS FOR B-2.1 Procedure The test specimens shall be tested in prevailing atmospheric conditions. In case of dispute, the samples shall be conditioned and tested in the standard atmosphere as given in IS 6359 : 1971. B-2 DIMENSIONS Take each garment constituting the test sample. Lay it flat on a table. Remove by hand all creases and wrinkles without distorting it. Measure to the nearest 0.5 cm the dimensions given. B-3 DIMENSIONAL CHANGES DUE TO RELAXATION 5 IS 4046 ( Part 2 ) : 1996 B-3.1 Marking of Test Specimens B-3.2.3 After drying condition the test specimen to moisture equilibrium at room temperature. Place it on the glass plate. Carefully remove all wrinkles and creases and place the other glass plate on the test specimen. Measure, correct to the nearest millimetre, the distance between each pair of marks separately. B-3.3 Calculation B-3.1.1 Take a brief from the test sample. Cut from it a test specimen measuring approximately 20 cm x 20 cm in such a way that the two of its sides are parallel in the direction of wales and the other two parallel in the direction of courses. Mark the direction of wales and courses in the test specimen. B-3.1.2 Mark centrally on the test specimen by means of indelible ink or a fast dyed cotton sewing thread an area 10 cm x 10 cm with two of its sides in the direction of wales and the other two in the direction of courses. Spread this test specimen on a flat smooth surface. Carefully remove by hand all creases and wrinkles. Within this area, mark six pairs of marks, three pairs each in the wales direction and the courses direction in such way that the distance between each pair of marks is the same. B-3.2 Procedure B-3.2.1 Place test specimen on a glass plate and carefully remove by hand all creases and wrinkles without distorting it and place the other glass plate on the test specimen. Measure, correct to the nearest millimetre, the distance between each pair of marks separately. B-3.2.2 Lay the test specimen flat in a tray of suitable size and of depth minimum 10 cm. Soak it under a head of 25 mm of water containing 0.5 percent suitable wetting agent at room temperature for 2 hours. Drain out the water and remove the test specimen carefully so that it is not stretched and lay it flat on a smooth surface. Remove the excess of water by an absorbent material and dry it at room temperature. B-3.3.1 Calculate separately the percentage of dimensional change both in the direction of wales and in the direction of courses by the following formula: 100 x (a - b) S = a where S = dimensional change, percent; a = the distance between a pair of marks (along the wales or courses as the case may be) before soaking; and b = the distance between the same pair of marks after soaking. B-3.3.2 Calculate separately the dimensional change between all the three pairs of marks in the direction of wales and in the direction of courses and calculate the average dimensional change in each direction. B-4 WALES AND COURSES Take a brief and lay it flat on a table. Remove all wrinkles and creases without distorting it. On one side of the test specimen, count with the help of a pick glass or magnifying glass, the number of wales and courses in 10 cm at three different places in the test specimen and calculate the average number of wales and courses per dm. Bureau of Indian Standards BIS is a statutory institution established under the Bureau of Indian Standards Act, 1986 to promote harmonious development of the activities of standardization, marking and quality certification of goods and attending to connected matters in the country. Copyright BIS has the copyright of all its publications. No part of these publications may be reproduced in any form without the prior permission in writing of BIS. This does not preclude the free use, in the course of implementing the standard, of necessary details, such as symbols and sizes, type or grade designations. Enquiries relating to copyright be addressed to the Director (Publications), BIS. 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This Indian Standard has been developed from Dot : No. TX 10 ( 0211) Amendments Issued Since Publication Amend No. Date of Issue Text Affected BUREAU OF INDIAN STANDARDS Headquarters: Manak Bhavan, 9 Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg, New Delhi 110002 Telephones : 323 0131,323 83 75,323 94 02 Regional Offices : Central : Manak Bhavan, 9 Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg Telegrams : Manaksanstha (Common to all offices) Telephone 323 76 17 1 323 45 41 37 84 99,37 85 61 1 37 86 26,37 9120 60 38 43 1 60 20 25 235 02 16,235 04 42 235 15 19,235 23 15 { 832 92 95,832 78 58 832 78 91,832 78 92 NEW DELHI 110002 Eastern : l/14 C. LT. Scheme VII M, V. I. P. Road, Maniktola CALCUTTA 700054 Northern : SC0 335-336, Sector 34-A, CHANDIGARH 160022 Southern : C. I. T. Campus, IV Cross Road, MADRAS 600113 Western : Manakalaya, E9 MIDC, Marol, Andheri (East) BOMBAY 400093 Branches : AHMADABAD. BANGALORE. BHOPAL. BHUBANESHWAR. COIMBATORE. FARIDABAD. GHAZIABAD. GUWAHATI. HYDERABAD. JAIPUR. KANPUR. LUCKNOW. PATNA. 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